The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on

Melissa Fuller
Melissa Fuller

A seasoned gaming analyst with over a decade of experience in casino strategy development and player education.