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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.